4 Questions 4 David Kinch

Casey Ellis — Sun, 10 Aug 2008 20:53:16 +0000

[Photo by Chris Ayers]

Here’s what San Francisco Chronicle Restaurant Critic Michael Bauer says about David Kinch:

Who would have thought that when he opened Manresa in Los Gatos six years ago that an American chef would have cooks from all over the world asking to learn in his state-of-the-art kitchen? Kinch, the protege of Barry Wine at the Quilted Giraffe in New York, uses heavy Spanish and European influences in his innovative menu that still has a California point of view. … the products are pristine; in fact he’s a partner in a biodynamic garden that produces much of the produce used in the restaurant.

Here’s what The Michelin Guide says: Two Stars.

And here’s what I say: David Kinch is a genius. And a helluva nice guy. I adore eating at his restaurant and value his friendship. I could have asked him 40 questions but limited myself to these four:

1. I suspect that when you do cooking demonstrations and guest chef stints you take your own knives. What other equipment/supplies do you usually tote along?

When I do events I try to leave nothing to chance and be as much in control as I can. If I can bring my own ingredients and if I feel it will make the difference, then I will do so. Our dishes tend to be simple, relying on quality of exceptional ingredients, with no place to hide, so it is imperative that they are in place. Traveling/working overseas is a whole other ballgame because you can’t bring any products with you. If I can, I will have someone I trust on location to scout out quality of ingredients and do the necessary leg work to insure that everything is correct.

But there is always room in a suitcase amongst the folds of clothes for keiffer lime leaves from our tree, a special olive oil or the white soy sauce that can make or break a dish. We can also adjust to a locale. Sometimes there is a special product at the location where we are going so we will adjust and try to take advantage of something so unique.

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2. Suppose a grateful diner gets up from the table at Manresa and offers to fly you anywhere in the world to dine? Where would you choose–and why?

Right now, Tokyo, without question. It might be the finest food city in the world right now, and it is so big and diverse and in a constant state of evolution that with each visit there is always something new. It can be breathtaking with the amount of new discoveries of tastes, techniques and ingredients. I find it so exciting there. Japan has amazing ingredients and products, a large talent pool of chefs, a very codified tradition of dishes and regional differences, and a well informed, educated and well traveled population with the means to support said restaurants — a combination that allows that vibrancy to happen.

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3. You’ve always been passionate about great ingredients but how has your relationship with Love Apple Farm affected your menu planning and cooking?

Love Apple Farm continues to grow in size and to fine tune itself to the daily needs of the restaurant. As this has happened it has become the dominant factor in not only constructing the individual dishes, but the menu itself. We now allow what the garden gives us to design the menu. This has been very satisfying but also the single most challenging moment for us in the kitchen at the restaurant. I would think that some would find this daunting and perhaps a bit restrictive but personally it has opened up a new world on the possibilities of nature and how it can translate to a dish. Inspiration is now not a pad of paper and an order sheet from a produce company but a series of walks through the garden with Cynthia: tasting, picking, merely holding items in your hand and smelling them. What more could I want!

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4.Chefs often are asked about their favorite restaurant meals but I’m curious about some of your most disappointing dining experiences.

Expectations are the key to any dining experience and managing one’s own expectations is the key to pleasure in dining out.
If you buy into hype and expectations are too high, then you will be disappointed. I try to enjoy myself in all scenarios; I mean it is a combination of food, wine, service, ambiance, and, of course, the company one keeps.

For me, though, it is disappointing to see great product not be respected, by negligence or lack of care, by laziness. Great product is nurtured and cared for by hard work by thoughtful and passionate individuals; perhaps an animal made a noble, and the ultimate, sacrifice. The greatest tragedy is to waste such product and ruin it through poor skills or lack of focus.

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4 Questions 4 David Kinch